There are far too many calibers that can be used on a 5.56 lower to mention them all here. What calibers can be used on a 5.56 lower? So, any bullet that isn’t larger than 5.56 should fit and work with a Multi AR lower. If you’re using a Multi AR-15 lower, it can fire any caliber that fits a 5.56 or 223 designation. Primary examples include 204 Ruger, 223 Remington, 6.5 Grendel, 300 Blackout, and 30 Remington AR. Any caliber that fits a 5.56 or below should work inside an AR-15, which is partly why so many options are available. There are around 30 calibers compatible with an AR-15 lower section, so you have a vast selection of different bullets you can use. All lower sections are basically compatible with all uppers, so you can interchange them at will. If a caliber is larger than 5.56, it won’t fit or fire correctly. When it comes to the AR-15, you can use any caliber that measures 5.56 or below with any AR-15 lower. FAQs Can you use any lower for any caliber? We explain which ones are worth it and which to avoid. If you’re curious as to which we have a full article on the the different types of AR lowers on the market today. What Are The Best AR-15 Lowers Out There? ( 2)įor an AR-15 lower, the calibers that are interchangeable include: As a rule, you can always size down, but you can never size up. Calibers Compatible With Standard AR-15 5.56mm LowerĪs you can see, there are tons of options available, which is partly why so many gun owners have an AR-15 – they can shoot pretty much anything they want.įor calibers to be interchangeable, they must be the same size and loaded at similar pressures. That said, here is a pretty complete list of calibers that can be used with a standard 5.56 NATO AR-15 lower. When discussing which calibers can be used in an AR-15 lower, you have to consider the upper you’re using too. The upper contains the barrel and firing mechanism, while the lower contains the magazine, trigger, and handle. There are two primary pieces of an AR-15 rifle – the upper and the lower. Let’s look at them all so you know what you can shoot with this versatile weapon. Part of the appeal is that the rifle can fire so many different calibers. Remember to always check to see if the upper come with a BCG, not all do.Īnd if you want to assemble your own upper from parts, KAK is a great company.When it comes to popular guns, the AR-15 is pretty much number one in the United States, with massive sales over the last decade or so. I really like these Aero Precision uppers: However, they are a bit more expensive because you have to buy a separate Bolt Carrier Group (BCG): īCA makes really cheap uppers that will work, but quality can be (is) lacking: Īnd there is always PSA, they sell quality parts for a lower cost: Any AR-15 caliber should work, including 5.56 x 45, 22 LR, 5.56 x 35, and 7.62 x 39, if the right mags are used. As long as the upper is compatible with a standard “Mil-Spec” AR-15 lowers, and you consider the above mentioned caveats related to the forward assist, then you should be good. The Bear Creek Arsenal side charging uppers will work with the double rib lower. Mil-Spec uppers will work with the single rib lower, as will Aero Precision M4 uppers. However, the double rib lower must be used with slick side uppers that do not have a forward assist. The single rib Super Lower will work with almost any AR-15 upper receiver. This depends on what Super Lower you want to print. While you can jump right into doing lower receivers and frames, I think it better to print smaller items to get things dialed in first.Ĭheck out the page on slicer settings for more details. Focus on print quality, and then on printing strong firearm parts. This is a bit over simplified, but it outlines the basic process. After that, adjust your wall count, infill type and density, line width, and layer height to get the part to the needed strength. Don’t worry about printing a strong part, work on print quality first. Tweak that until you get a good 3DBenchy. I like to start with the slicers default profile for the printer I am using. Copying someone else’s settings may appear easy, but won’t teach you anything, and when you need to slice a new part, or trouble shoot an issue, you will struggle. Why? Because the settings you use depend on the part you are slicing, the filament, and the printer you are using. Great question, also one without a direct answer.
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